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carpet colors sample in SUNOL.But to begin at the beginning, at heathrow.
As usual, i was shamefully unprepared for my journey, and only properly began to address my damascene ignorance on the plane.
It owes its life to the waters of the barada, a river that tumbles from the mountains and seeps into the plain to create a vast oasis in otherwise barren sands.
No visitor remained unmoved by this vision, not even the prophet mohammed, who travelled to damascus from mecca on this upland road.
Damascus airport is bleak sovietera retro, which made our painless progress though immigration all the more surprising.
The only hiccup came when the strange script on a laos visa in my passport was taken for hebrew.
No one with an israeli stamp in their passport will get into syria.
But the matter was quickly resolved.
Damascus is utterly safe.
This cannot be emphasised enough.
There is no record of any westerner being mugged, never mind kidnapped.
Women can walk home alone in the small hours.
No religious zealots harangue you; no wouldbe guides push themselves upon you; and not a soul hassles you to buy souvenirs.
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